Winter coats do a lot of hard work. They are the first thing people see from October to March, and most of us own one or two that we wear almost every day. A brooch is the simplest way to make that coat feel personal again, and it takes ten seconds to pin on.
In this guide we cover where to place a brooch on a coat, how to choose the right size, and five floral brooches from our collection that look beautiful against wool, tweed and cashmere.
Where to pin a brooch on a coat
On the lapel. The classic spot. Pin the brooch on the left lapel, roughly level with your collarbone, so it sits where a buttonhole would be. This works on tailored coats, blazers and peacoats.
At the collar. On a collarless or funnel-neck coat, pin the brooch just below the neckline, slightly off centre. It draws the eye up towards your face, which is especially flattering when you are wrapped up in layers.
On a scarf. Use a brooch to hold a wrapped scarf in place over your coat. It is practical as well as pretty, and it lets you move the brooch around without putting pins through your coat fabric.
In a cluster. Two or three smaller brooches grouped together on one lapel look modern and collected rather than formal. Keep to one theme, such as florals or pearls, so the group feels intentional.
How to choose the right size
As a rule, the heavier the fabric, the bigger the brooch can be. A chunky wool or bouclé coat can carry a statement piece around 5 to 6 cm, while a lighter trench or a fine knit suits something smaller and lighter, around 3 cm. If your coat has a busy pattern, choose a brooch with a strong outline so it does not disappear into the fabric.
Five floral brooches for winter
1. Gold Peony Pearl Brooch
A full peony bloom in 18K gold-plated copper with a lustrous freshwater pearl at its centre. At 4.8 cm across it is a confident size for a lapel, and the warm gold looks especially good against camel, cream and chocolate brown.
Shop the Gold Peony Pearl Brooch
2. Mother-of-Pearl Camellia Flower Brooch
Petals of luminous mother-of-pearl edged in fine gold plating, with a freshwater pearl centre ringed by sparkling zircon. At around 3 cm across, it is the most delicate of the five and a lovely choice for a lighter coat or a fine knit.
Shop the Mother-of-Pearl Camellia Flower Brooch
3. Enamel Bloom Zirconia Floral Brooch
A spray of enamel blooms finished with 16K gold plating and set with zirconia. It measures 5.9 cm tall, so it reads beautifully from a distance and suits a heavier wool coat or a dark winter jacket that needs a little colour.
Shop the Enamel Bloom Zirconia Floral Brooch
4. Baroque Pearl Rose Brooch
A rose silhouette built around a natural baroque pearl, with zirconia detailing, available in gold vermeil or sterling silver vermeil. Because every baroque pearl has its own shape, no two brooches look exactly alike. Wear it on a lapel, a scarf or the collar of a dress.
Shop the Baroque Pearl Rose Brooch
5. Pearl Jasmine Brooch
Imitation pearl blossoms on golden stems, with fresh green enamel leaves, in gold-plated copper accented with 14K gold plating. The touch of green feels fresh against grey and navy, and it makes a thoughtful small gift.
Simple ways to style them
- Camel coat, gold brooch. Warm tones on warm tones always look polished. Try the peony or the rose.
- Navy or charcoal coat, pearl and green. Cooler fabrics let the jasmine or camellia stand out.
- Black coat, one statement piece. On black, a single larger brooch such as the Enamel Bloom does all the work. Keep earrings small.
- Move it indoors. When the coat comes off, move the brooch to a blazer, a cardigan or a velvet evening top.
Caring for your brooch
- Pin it through the fabric's weave rather than forcing it, to protect both the coat and the pin.
- Take brooches off before putting a coat through the wash or sending it to the dry cleaner.
- Wipe pearls and mother-of-pearl with a soft, dry cloth after wearing, and keep them away from perfume.
- Store each brooch separately so the pins do not scratch other pieces.
For more on looking after pearls, see our guide to cleaning pearl jewellery at home.
Frequently asked questions
Which side should a brooch go on?
Traditionally the left side, near the collarbone. There is no strict rule, though. On an asymmetric coat or a wrapped scarf, place it wherever it balances the outline.
Will a brooch damage my coat?
A brooch pinned gently through the weave of wool or tweed will not leave a mark. On very fine fabrics, pin it to a scarf or the lapel facing instead.
Can I wear more than one brooch?
Yes. A small cluster of two or three on one lapel is a modern way to wear them. Keep the rest of your jewellery simple.
Find your winter brooch
A good brooch earns its place season after season, moving from coat to blazer to evening dress. Explore our full brooch collection, or read our earlier guide on how to wear a brooch with style.
